Visitors try their hands at catching the likes of lake trout and whitefish on the massive, frozen-over expanse of Lake Superior. | PHOTO: COURTESY OF TOURISM THUNDER BAY
10 Things to Do in Thunder Bay
Embrace this Northwestern Ontario city’s proven winter gems — and its unexpected delights.
By Stephanie Wallcraft
THUNDER BAY IS AN UNDENIABLE WINTER WONDERLAND, celebrated for its world-class outdoor sports and snowy landscapes. Perhaps a Nordic-like approach to winter is etched into Thunder Bay’s collective DNA — after all, the city does have the largest Finnish population outside of Finland. Scratch that icy surface and you’ll find an abundance of treasures — from bustling markets and cultural events to local delicacies and, of course, frozen beauty.
See live performances
Take in a show at Magnus Theatre, Northwestern Ontario’s only professional theatre company. Established in 1971 to bring stage productions to the region, the company is housed in the renovated historic Central School building and produces a full season of plays and musicals. This December, catch the popular holiday production Every Christmas Story Ever Told (And Then Some), or, this coming February, see the world premiere of On Thin Ice by Drew Hayden Taylor. If you’re craving live classical music, check out the Thunder Bay Symphony Orchestra (TBSO), now in its 65th season, running from October through April. The only professional symphony orchestra between Toronto and Winnipeg showcases a diverse range of performances, from classical masterworks and holiday-themed concerts to family-friendly shows.
Go ice fishing
If you have a hankering to go ice fishing, reach out to Bear Trak Outfitters in Dorion (about an hour outside the city). They’ll take you out to Lake Superior’s Black Bay and set you up with a fishing shelter including a wood stove, ice scoops and an outhouse. Luxury versions also come with a cooking kit for frying up your catch. Expect to hook plenty of perch and possibly some northern pike, whitefish or rainbow trout.
Kakabeka Falls is known as the Niagara of the North. | PHOTO: SPARKLING WATER/SHUTTERSTOCK
“Scratch that icy surface and you’ll find an abundance of treasures — from bustling markets and cultural events to local delicacies and, of course, frozen beauty.”
(From top) Dig through the crates at The Vinyl Frontier; some of the eclectic wares found at the Thunder Bay Country Market. | PHOTOS: (FROM TOP) COURTESY OF THE VINYL FRONTIER; COURTESY OF THUNDER BAY COUNTRY MARKET
Do some record shopping
The Vinyl Frontier is a treasure trove for music lovers with its wide selection of new and used vinyl in a variety of genres, including classic rock, metal and rap, as well as imports from Europe. But it’s more than just records. The shop, located on Cumberland Street, also features a diverse array of music memorabilia, books, cassettes and pop-culture collectibles. Beyond buying and trading, owners Chris and Misty Bernst are committed to fostering a community around music, offering visitors a friendly space to crate-dig for their next favourite album. The store is open on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays. But call ahead for specific hours of operation, as the Bernsts also have full-time jobs elsewhere.
View Kakabeka Falls
The Niagara of the North, as this waterfall is known, is one of Ontario’s most spectacular unspoiled natural wonders in any season. Visit in wintertime and you’ll discover a crystallized cascade that you can view up close from both sides of the boardwalk trail.
Treat your sweet tooth
Swell Bakery is a small-batch bakery located in the heart of downtown Port Arthur (the northern part of Thunder Bay). The bakery, owned and operated by baker extraordinaire Emily Kohne, is open Wednesday through Saturday, starting at 9 a.m., but a line often starts before that. Why? Customers-in-the-know are after Kohne’s famous artisanal croissants, which tend to sell out quickly. But Swell’s not just about croissants. The menu changes monthly and can boast anything from pain au chocolat and seasonal Danish pastries to bacon-and-egg croissants and cardamom cinnamon buns — plus a regular array of cookies. If you want to choose from the day’s full range of baked goods, you’ll need to be in line before opening time.
Shop the Thunder Bay Country Market
Thunder Bay’s farmers’ market doesn’t shut down with the harvest. On Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings year-round, this marketplace is a lively destination where a wide variety of local vendors make it, bake it and grow it. Located at the Canadian Lakehead Exhibition (CLE) grounds, it serves as a central community hub for shopping and socializing. The vendors can change, but local staples often appear. The stall for Thunder Oak Cheese Farm, known for producing Ontario’s first Gouda cheese, is a must-visit for its wide selection of local, farm-fresh cheeses and addictive cheese curds. As for crafts, you’ll see artwork, jewelry and other creations inspired by the natural beauty of the boreal forest and the region’s geography.
Swell’s S’mores croissants are sprinkled with graham crumbs and topped with flamed meringue. | PHOTO: COURTESY OF SWELL BAKERY
Taste the city’s delicacies
Thunder Bay boasts an array of delicious fare. Here are three must-tries. The Persian donut is a chewy, deep-fried cinnamon swirl creation with berry-infused icing. The most famous place to get them is The Persian Man, a coffee shop and the original retail outlet for the donut’s creator, Bennett’s Bakery. Due to the city’s large Eastern European community, perogies — dumplings made from unleavened dough stuffed with potato, cheese or sauerkraut — are a local favourite. The best ones are found at such places as the Port Arthur Polish Hall and SUKHANOV Ukrainian Kitchen. Thin, crepe-like Finnish pancakes are a renowned local delicacy, too. This staple has taken hold at the Thunder Bay Country Market vendor, Hoito. Take this even further and get your sweat on at Kanga’s Sauna, where you can enjoy a diner-style breakfast, including Finnish pancakes, under the same roof.
Take a cooking class
Fancy learning some soulful culinary skills? AfroGourmets is a mobile culinary company providing hands-on cooking classes, as well as catering and pop-up events. The classes offer immersion into the heart of cuisines from a variety of nations — from Senegal to Italy, Morocco to Thailand. Guided by Senegalese siblings Awa and Ibrahima Diop, AfroGourmets’s pupils learn to prepare authentic dishes in a lively, communal setting that feels more like a social gathering than a class. Open to residents and visitors, classes are held at different rented kitchen spaces around Thunder Bay and require advance booking.
Check out Goods & Co. Market
Nestled within a revitalized former department store, Goods & Co. Market is a buzzing downtown creative hub. More than just a place to shop, it’s a launch pad for small businesses, including many Indigenous artisans and food producers who bring a rich, authentic feel to the space. You can browse a unique collection of items, from handmade Indigenous crafts like beadwork and ribbon skirts, to artisanal baked goods from area vendors, as well as beautiful pottery and ceramics from local artists. The market also features art classes and live music at the market’s bar, Woodside. It also hosts pop-up events such as the Indigenous Artist Market. Open Wednesday through Sunday, Goods & Co. is a great refuge from the weather during a winter visit, offering a cozy and wholly Thunder Bay experience — all under one roof.
Enjoy Fort William Historical Park
If you’re looking to get back outdoors, this living reconstruction of the Fort William fur-trading post is one of the top attractions of its kind in Ontario. It hosts several family-friendly winter events annually, including the Voyageur Winter Carnival, which sees the grounds converted into a frosty playground each Family Day, complete with a snow maze, ice skating, tubing, carnival games and plenty of entertainment. CAA
(From top) Sneaking a taste at an AfroGourmets cooking class; visitors explore the snow maze at Voyageur Winter Carnival. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF AFROGOURMETS; COURTESY OF FORT WILLIAM HISTORICAL PARK
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(From left) Dig through the crates The Vinyl Frontier; some of the eclectic wares found at the Thunder Bay Country Market. | PHOTOS: (FROM TOP) COURTESY OF THE VINYL FRONTIER; COURTESY OF THUNDER BAY COUNTRY MARKET
Do some record shopping
The Vinyl Frontier is a treasure trove for music lovers with its wide selection of new and used vinyl in a variety of genres, including classic rock, metal and rap, as well as imports from Europe. But it’s more than just records. The shop, located on Cumberland Street, also features a diverse array of music memorabilia, books, cassettes and pop-culture collectibles. Beyond buying and trading, owners Chris and Misty Bernst are committed to fostering a community around music, offering visitors a friendly space to crate-dig for their next favourite album. The store is open on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays. But call ahead for specific hours of operation, as the Bernsts also have full-time jobs elsewhere.
View Kakabeka Falls
The Niagara of the North, as this waterfall is known, is one of Ontario’s most spectacular unspoiled natural wonders in any season. Visit in wintertime and you’ll discover a crystallized cascade that you can view up close from both sides of the boardwalk trail.
Treat your sweet tooth
Swell Bakery is a small-batch bakery located in the heart of downtown Port Arthur (the northern part of Thunder Bay). The bakery, owned and operated by baker extraordinaire Emily Kohne, is open Wednesday through Saturday, starting at 9 a.m., but a line often starts before that. Why? Customers-in-the-know are after Kohne’s famous artisanal croissants, which tend to sell out quickly. But Swell’s not just about croissants. The menu changes monthly and can boast anything from pain au chocolat and seasonal Danish pastries to bacon-and-egg croissants and cardamom cinnamon buns — plus a regular array of cookies. If you want to choose from the day’s full range of baked goods, you’ll need to be in line before opening time.
Shop the Thunder Bay Country Market
Thunder Bay’s farmers’ market doesn’t shut down with the harvest. On Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings year-round, this marketplace is a lively destination where a wide variety of local vendors make it, bake it and grow it. Located at the Canadian Lakehead Exhibition (CLE) grounds, it serves as a central community hub for shopping and socializing. The vendors can change, but local staples often appear. The stall for Thunder Oak Cheese Farm, known for producing Ontario’s first Gouda cheese, is a must-visit for its wide selection of local, farm-fresh cheeses and addictive cheese curds. As for crafts, you’ll see artwork, jewelry and other creations inspired by the natural beauty of the boreal forest and the region’s geography.
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(From left) Sneaking a taste at an AfroGourmet cooking class; visitors explore the snow maze at Voyageur Winter Carnival. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF AFROGOURMETS; COURTESY OF FORT WILLIAM HISTORICAL PARK
Taste the city’s delicacies
Thunder Bay boasts an array of delicious fare. Here are three must-tries. The Persian donut is a chewy, deep-fried cinnamon swirl creation with berry-infused icing. The most famous place to get them is The Persian Man, a coffee shop and the original retail outlet for the donut’s creator, Bennett’s Bakery. Due to the city’s large Eastern European community, perogies — dumplings made from unleavened dough stuffed with potato, cheese or sauerkraut — are a local favourite. The best ones are found at such places as the Port Arthur Polish Hall and SUKHANOV Ukrainian Kitchen. Thin, crepe-like Finnish pancakes are a renowned local delicacy, too. This staple has taken hold at the Thunder Bay Country Market vendor, Hoito. Take this even further and get your sweat on at Kanga’s Sauna, where you can enjoy a diner-style breakfast, including Finnish pancakes, under the same roof.
Take a cooking class
Fancy learning some soulful culinary skills? AfroGourmets is a mobile culinary company providing hands-on cooking classes, as well as catering and pop-up events. The classes offer immersion into the heart of cuisines from a variety of nations — from Senegal to Italy, Morocco to Thailand. Guided by Senegalese siblings Awa and Ibrahima Diop, AfroGourmets’s pupils learn to prepare authentic dishes in a lively, communal setting that feels more like a social gathering than a class. Open to residents and visitors, classes are held at different rented kitchen spaces around Thunder Bay and require advance booking.
Check out Goods & Co. Market
Nestled within a revitalized former department store, Goods & Co. Market is a buzzing downtown creative hub. More than just a place to shop, it’s a launch pad for local small businesses, including many Indigenous artisans and food producers who bring a rich, authentic feel to the space. You can browse a unique collection of items, from handmade Indigenous crafts like beadwork and ribbon skirts, to artisanal baked goods from local vendors, as well as beautiful pottery and ceramics from local artists. The market also features art classes and live music at the market’s bar, Woodside. It also hosts pop-up events such as the Indigenous Artist Market. Open Wednesday through Sunday, Goods & Co. is a great refuge from the weather during a winter visit, offering a cozy and wholly local experience — all under one roof. Enjoy Fort William Historical Park
If you’re looking to get back outdoors, this living reconstruction of the Fort William fur-trading post is one of the top attractions of its kind in Ontario. It hosts several family-friendly winter events annually, including the Voyageur Winter Carnival, which sees the grounds converted into a frosty playground each Family Day, complete with a snow maze, ice skating, tubing, carnival games and plenty of entertainment. CAA